Limerick's Wickham Way was once a disused driveway and warehouse area between two grungy city blocks. Now it's a semi-thriving food and culture spot. I say "semi" because the biggest problem with this assemblage is knowing when any of the stalls will be open. And while this small area can't compare with the sprawling markets of larger cities, it's got character. For one, it's enveloped by the grooving Downbeat Records with their giant reggae sound system. Though I'm not here to talk about where to buy your vinyl... this is where you buy your vinyl.
If you are from out of town and want to find the place, search up "11 Wickham St." which seems to be the official address. Go on a weekend afternoon and it won't be closed. You can buy OK tacos (beef birria are the best option), terrible dosa, expensive Jamaican food, pastries and cakes from random tables, weak coffee from a friendly Brazilian and... the best Malay food on this island.
KTS Food & Bakery is set up in a red shack plastered with menus. On my first visit I got a gigantic bowl of Penang Prawn Mee (€13) and made it about two-thirds the way through the noodles and broth. They do Chicken Hor Fun, Chicken Mee, Mee Goreng, Dry Noodle Dumplings... accompanied by char sui, crunchy pork, or duck as you like. And that's just the noodle selection.
Oh yeah, this is a breakfast dish. Which only goes to show how well they eat in parts of Asia!
I can recommend the roast duck on rice (€13) or noodles (€14) which has a sticky soy sauce glaze with that famous Chinese five spice flavour. On this occasion it came with a large serving of dumpling soup (€7 on its own) which was so good I lost the powers of speech. That's not a lie or an affectation. This whisper subtle broth with wonderful home-made dumplings will remind you of the best wonton soup you've ever eaten.
Malaysian food tends to be subtle, more on the salty side, and rarely too spicy. (At least not how you will find it unless visiting certain regions of Malaysia itself.) It doesn't scream flavour but envelops you in comfort vibes. Though less than one year on this site, KTS have seven years cooking experience. I hope they never learn to compromise! I've checked with two Malay acquaintances and they vouch for the authenticity of the dishes.
I very much appreciate that the soup gets served in real bowls, though not with real utensils unfortunately. Bring on the soup spoon and all will be well!
As of yesterday KTS opened a second truck selling various dim sum, both soft and hard shells. Mostly pork filling, mind you. I brought some home as a midnight snack. Wait a moment, let me try...
[Thirty seconds in the microwave and here's the perfect flaky pastry. Bursting with a sweet filling that just happens to be meat!]
Back to the main review: This friendly couple roast their own duck. They make their own dumplings from scratch. They make lovely parcels and tom yum soup, butter rice, marmite chicken. Something for everyone who eats meat. Not for vegetarians.
Hours: Friday 1-9pm, Saturday 11am-9pm, Sunday 2-6pm. Wheelchair accessible. Street and garage parking nearby. Delivery offered.
Scoring:
real soup bowl at a take-away +1
friendly and prompt service +1
authentic food without compromise +2
value for money +1
serenaded by funk from Downbeat Records +1
great place to meet and chill +1
struggle for outside seating -1
Total = 6
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